Tuesday, May 18, 2010

My afternoon with Marcus Samuelsson





Crab cakes, fried chicken, and gravlax?!...oh my! I love to try new foods and cuisines; an experience made even better when I get to try it from world-renowned master chef Marcus Samuelsson. Macy's recently created a culinary council to provide expert advice and recipes from people who love to cook and excel doing it. When it comes to what defines authentic American cuisine, this discussion becomes complicated. One of the best things about America is it is a melting pot of all cultures, ethnicities, races and luckily for us, food.

Recently, I had the opportunity to try some New American cuisine over at Macy's Metro D.C. location when I attended a cooking demo and book signing with Chef Marcus Samuelsson, as a part of Macy's culinary council events. 

Quick facts on Marcus Samuelsson:
  • Was born in Ethopia, but was adopted and raised in Sweden.
  • Owner of Acquavit in NYC and new project Red Rooster.
  • Guest Chef for first state dinner of Barack Obama's presidency. (Go here for the menu.)
  • Youngest chef to receive a three star review from the New York Times
  • Named "Best Chef: New York City" by the James Beard Foundation in 2003.
  • 3 ingredients that he could not live without...here's his list: 
    • Berbere (A popular Ethiopian seasoning prepared from Ethiopian red chilli peppers, garlic, and other spices. It is sun-dried and then mixed with more spices and finally ground.)
    • Salt
    • Water

The event started with a tasting of Ethiopian fares served at the outset to celebrate Chef Samuelsson's Ethiopian heritage. If you have not tried Ethiopian foods and love a little kick in your meal, you have been missing out! Even if that was the only thing I ate during the event, I would have been satisfied, but the eats didn't stop there. Chef Samuelsson prepared gravlax, panfried crabcakes, and deep fried chicken. American cuisine in the past has been largely influenced by European preparations and flavors, just like most things, it has become global. I wish I could convey the complexity of flavors in the foods served, but there is no possible way to do it justice. Don't fret! Here is his recipe for gravlax! Trust me...you'll love it!

Chef Samuelsson says:"If you want to try something Scandinavian," Marcus says, "gravlax is the most traditional dish of all, and it's a lot easier than you might think." You can also use tuna or sea bass instead of salmon. And don't stop at fish. "I'd make this with beef tenderloin in a heartbeat," says Marcus. "You just cure it whole and then slice it thin like carpaccio."

Without further ado, here is his recipe:

Gravlax with Mustard Sauce
Serves 10 to 12

Ingredients
Gravlax
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons cracked white peppercorns
  • 2 1/2 to 3 pounds skin-on salmon fillet, in one piece, pin bones removed
  • 2 to 3 large bunches fresh dill, coarsely chopped, including stems

Mustard Sauce
  • 2 tablespoons honey mustard
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon cold strong brewed coffee
  • Pinch of salt
  • Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
  • 3/4 cup grapeseed or canola oil
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill

Directions
  1. Thin slices potato-mustard bread or whole-grain bread, for serving.
  2. To prepare the gravlax, combine the sugar, salt, and peppercorns in a small bowl and mix well. Place the salmon skin side down in a shallow dish and rub a handful of the sugar mixture into both sides of the fish. 
  3. Sprinkle the salmon with the remaining mixture and cover with the dill. Cover the dish and let stand for 6 hours in a cool spot. Transfer the salmon to the refrigerator and let cure for 36 hours.
  4. To prepare the sauce, combine the two mustards, the sugar, vinegar, coffee, salt, and pepper in a blender. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream, blending until the sauce is thick and creamy. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the dill. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight, to allow the flavors to marry.
  5. Scrape the seasonings off the gravlax. Slice the gravlax on the diagonal into thin slices, or leave whole so your guests can slice it themselves. Serve with the mustard sauce and bread.


Marcus Samuelsson introduced us to his world of the "New American Table" where he combines his Ethiopian heritage, Swedish upbringing, European techniques, and American influences. The result was gravlax, crab cakes, and fried chicken. Gravlax is made by taking raw salmon (sushi-grade) and curing it with salt, sugar, and dill for  from 1 to 3 days. Chef Samuelsson added non-traditional spices giving it his own American spin. The day ended with me meeting the man himself and getting my book signed! 

Here are takeaways and chef's secrets:
  • When traveling to a new place, sample all levels of eating: street food, a home of someone who lives there, and fine dining.
  • If you want to make crispy fried chicken:
    •  use a day old oil and consider marinating in coconut oil that is been simmered previously
    • Try marinating chicken with simmered coconut milk
  • When buying fish, you want it to be odorless! Always ask for sushi grade from your fishmonger (it won't cost you more than other cuts)


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